Menswear designer and boutique owner Perchelle O’Boyle has returned to her native St. Louis to create a Midwest fashion capital. Downtown St. Louis is in a state of reinvention, and now with a resurgence of restaurants and boutiques including, Perchelle a custom-tailoring shop for men is now a treasured stop on the map. After living and working in L.A. for seven years O’Boyle used the skills she learned at the Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising working for such companies as Apple Bottoms, Gear 7, and Rock Revolution. Her resume lent her opportunity to maintain a list of famous clientele such as Tyrese, actor Masi Oka and footballer Gary Baxter.  After working for other companies she finally branched out on her own in 2008 to open her boutique. 

1.Style & Substance: Have you always known you wanted to be a fashion designer?
Yes I have! I don’t know if my mother agreed back then and I am so glad I did not listen to her! I used to cut up her good bath towels and drape them to make cute outfits.

2.    Style & Substance: What are some of the most rewarding perks of being an entrepreneur?
Not having to report to anyone, setting my own schedule, and watching what I have worked so hard for come to fruition. 

 3.       Style & Substance: Was it difficult to finance your dream and open your boutique and the fashion line itself?
        Yes and No. No because thankfully, I had the support of my parents. They had a nest egg set aside for myself and my siblings and they were all but happy to invest into their daughter’s dreams. Yes because it was a bit of a hassle being a new company trying to get a small business loan from a bank.

 4.       Style & Substance: Has the recession hurt your business and if so what are doing to gain new clients?
        Only to a certain degree. My custom business generally targets the more affluent male so my clients’ buying habits pretty much remained the same.

  5.       Style & Substance: Menswear is usually a male-dominated part of the fashion industry, why menswear and what about the ladies?! 
I definitely have an eye for designing male clothes and quite frankly, why not. There should definitely be a women’s take on male fashion out there in the industry. I have not forgotten about the ladies, but at this particular stage, my interest is growing my menswear line.

 6.       Style & Substance: What are some the key trends for fall that you can’t wait to  design?
         I see a lot of bold prints coming into play. It would be fun to play around with the different applications in some of my designs.        

  7.       Style & Substance: Where do you draw inspiration for your collections?
Any and everywhere. From watch designs to unique architecture.

  8.       What is your Style & Substance?
 My style and substance is a contemporary look with subtle details that distinguishes the Perchelle Gentlemen.

To find out more about Perchelle please click here.

"Will work for sneakers tee"

Rising fashion designer and student, Phylicia Dee is not your average 18 year old. How many teens do you know are at the helm of a thriving apparel line?  Ingenious Style, created by a then 16 year old California native has taken her love of fashion, music, and art to create a collection of colorful graphic tees.  The clothes are ripe with comical statements and animated characters that could become your mascot and compliment a pair of your hottest kicks. Realizing your dream is only half the battle executing them is the fun part! See how Phylicia makes this happen every day!

1. Style & Substance Magazine: When were you inspired to create this limited edition clothing line?
I have always loved everything about clothing and fashion, but, I never knew what I wanted to do in the industry until 2 years ago when I started my line. Prior to starting Ingenious Style Clothing my friends, Teyonie Page, Maryssa Rebekah, Brianna Steward, and I saw an up rise in urban apparel and local clothing lines. We thought to ourselves, we could be doing this too. So we started working on a line and although we had great idea’s we had too many and couldn’t decided on one. We ended up not producing a line but during this time it was as if we all found our calling in the industry. Teyonie Page is now a music artist, Maryssa is now my photographer, Brianna is one of my models and I continued with the clothing industry. I created a new logo, new name, new ideas and from there came Ingenious Style Clothing. 

 2.  Style & Substance Magazine: So ambitious!? You are 18 years old and still in school where do you find the time to create and produce the line AND complete your schoolwork? 
It is very hard to find the balance in school work and my company. I am actually a third year of college and attend California State Polytechnic University Pomona. It has been extremely challenging to maintain line and my 3.0 + grade point average. I thank God for planners, and support. I have to keep a tight schedule and make sure I allot myself enough time for my school work because that is most important to me right now. But, as an Apparel Merchandise Management major my school work and my Ingenious Style Clothing work pretty much goes hand and hand.  The key for me is always planning and making sure I stick to my plan. I also have a really great team of people (my parents, my assistants, and my staff) who support me and keep me on track. 

  3. Style & Substance Magazine: The apparel business can be a tough cookie to break into, you are based in your hometown in California, what about NYC?

 It is a very difficult industry and location is very critical. California and NYC are two of the best places to start a clothing line in the US because there are so many opportunities. So, I’m glad that I was able to start my line in my hometown of California but, after 2 years I do think it is time for me to expand my line and I will be moving to New York very soon.

 4. Style & Substance Magazine: What are your future plans for growing the brand?
My next venture I’m going to move to is expanding the clothing line and doing some collaborations with some already established sneaker lines. I also have a lot of new urban apparel (Letterman sweaters, T-Shirts, Hoodies, Crewneck Sweatshirts, hats, etc.) coming out with my next season. So, I have a lot of big plans for the line short term and long term branching out into a couture line.

 5. Style & Substance Magazine: Describe a day in the life of Phylicia Dee.
My day usually starts at about 8:00AM. “Wake up in the morning and I have to thank God.” I go on twitter on my phone (I have to see what everyone is doing), then head to my computer. I usually do my homework in the morning so I will knock that out then head to school, where I will go to class and club meetings. After school I’ll head back to my apartment and depending on the day make some phone calls find out what’s going on with the business: how sells are, status on shirt printing, progress with sponsored artist. After that I will usually do market research: watch videos, go online FaceBook look in magazines and find out what people are wearing so I can make sure that not only am I keeping up with the trends but starting new ones. I have meetings at least once a week with new artist/groups who are interested in sponsorship by Ingenious Style Clothing, so I am constantly in Los Angeles working. I’m not all school and work though; I also make time to hang out with my friends/family and of course shop.

 6. Style & Substance Magazine: What are some inventive ways you have made your resources stretch to gain more exposure for the line.
Like I stated previously, I have a lot of people who a behind myself and the line. We all work together to get exposure for the line. I sponsor different groups which helps with exposure because whenever they go out and do show’s with Ingenious Style Clothing on people will recognize like oh, “I saw Audio Push in that shirt.” or whoever it may be so that is a great resource. Also using my school, I recently had an article come out at my school about the line which reached over 20,000 people which was great. I also do my research on great magazines like yours which could help the line gain more exposure. 

 7. Style & Substance Magazine: What motivates you to really make it in the industry?
Many times people will say that they are motivated by the naysayers and the people who hated on them but I’m motivated by the opposite. I’m motivated by the people who believe in me and the line because I don’t want to disappoint. So, I continue to push and try to make it in the industry because I know people are watching me and expecting me to do great things.

 8. Style & Substance Magazine: What is your style & substance?
Keep your style ingenious and make sure you keep your substance with the style.

To purchase clothing please click here.

Hannah Bhuiya, at the Wallpaper Design Awards

Breaking into the world of fashion styling and costume design  can be compared to going to the see the Wizard  of Oz: there will be battles, obstacles and shakeups along the way but with a strong team and drive you will reach your desired goal.  Enter Hannah Bhuiya,  a British export and stylist  that has made her mark  in the fashion world in her native country. Armed with a unique eye, coveted personal style, and  an eclectic portfolio, her work has been featured in editorial and print advertisements like Belvedere and V magazine. Her next goal?  Keep reading to find out…

 1. Style & Substance: How did you break into the world of publishing in London?

I came to London in 1999 after having already started styling and fashion writing during my studies for a BA in English Literature at Auckland University, in New Zealand. I was  born in London so it was natural for me to come there to start working in a bigger city than tiny Auckland! I didn’t study fashion at all, but started contributing writing to various magazines, like Surface in the US, Sunday Times Style, V, and then from that, was asked to style the accompanying shoots. After a while it was too difficult for me to keep up with juggling look numbers as well as writing about the ideology behind the collections, so I chose styling editorials over fashion writing.

2. Style & Substance: You  have such a varied work history: model, actress,  stylist, and writer, which one is your favorite?

I am not really an actress, but I do like to try everything once! I did do a few classes when I was a teenager but I realized I much preferred developing my own style rather than taking on another character under someone else’s direction. So, after trying everything, my favorite thing IS styling, myself or other people.

3. Style & Substance: Globally you have been featured in many  “It Girl” lists and fashion pages, where do you find inspiration for such an eclectic wardrobe? Do you take it seriously?

There are so many websites and lists now… It’s like anyone who ever left the house in a cute outfit is an ‘It Girl’… But I was really  chuffed at the beginning, when I first started to work and go out in London, because I wasn’t printed because I was not  famous or anyone famous’s child, but simply because I had put whatever I had together with a certain style that day or night… And I always think it’s silly to love clothes so much and not take them out and wear them!  Now you go to a fashion show or event and there are 100 blog-photographers outside snapping everyone, it’s not quite the same! But I always let anyone who wants to take my picture, it’s nice to think my thrown together combo will be either spread around the world, or deleted and dissolved into bytes again. So I don’t take it too seriously but I do appreciate that style is a commodity that is traded visually. It’s ineffable and intangible but something that is recognized by others with style. 

4. Style & Substance: Do you think they will ever be another designer like the late  Alexander McQueen?

 No. McQueen was a true individual in both his fashion vision and his approach to the business of fashion. He wouldn’t settle until he had his own label, his own stores and carte blanche [blank check] to design and show however he wanted. No one else can ever be him – even if they do keep the house going, I can’t imagine it being more than a rehash of his key themes, a strategy which he himself never fell prey to. Every season and show was an original and unexpected departure for the last.  However he made the irrevocable decision to end his own life so as much of a loss it is to us who were stimulated by his incredible imagination, we must respect that it is the way he wanted it all to end.

Featured work from her portfolio

  5. Style & Substance: What are the upcoming trends for fall that will be on your shopping list?
 I don’t do trends… I just wear what I feel, updated each season with the things that catch my eye. I never throw anything out (even odd shoes to which I have lost the other side moving house…) just in case I start ‘feeling it’ again. All I wanted for the coming season was another pair of men’s brogues in my size and a pair of men’s old fashioned eye-glasses frames, which I just found in the last few days. I wear men’s stuff with more feminine shapes and find it really works for me.

6.Style & Substance: What is the major difference in your eyes of American and British fashion?
Being in New York right this minute, I wanted to see some of the new American designers in the environment that inspired them, I find myself picking up designers from London!  It’s so weird – out of context pieces that I am totally familiar with become surprising and new again! So thats a way of not answering your question really – I think that British and American design cannot be divided along national lines, but each individual designer takes inspiration from the world they fashion around them. And the best stores and the best buyers  curate a complimentary mix of the European and American.  My favorite American designer would have to be Rodarte, their pieces are truly works of art, and it was hard for me to leave them behind in Opening Ceremony today.

Featured work from her portfolio, styling an album's cover shoot

7. Style & Substance: Any new projects?
 Well, I might be doing costume design on a forthcoming feature film; have been doing storyboards and research but not confirmed as yet! Editorial work has really been my training, so now at this stage in my career these skills can now be transferred to other arenas, like film, music, etc.

8. Style & Substance: What is your style and substance?
Style is the difference between being and nothingness.

To see more of Hannah’s work click here.

Amelian models Jeremy Scott for Adidas Collection.

The modeling industry is not an easy beast to slay. You are constantly scrutinized for your looks and always in competition  with the next hot pretty thing. One day you may be a household name, the next  last year’s “it girl”.  Amelian, an Anchorage, Alaska native  won’t be in that crowd. This multi-hyphenate phenom (model/stylist/ graphic designer)  is more than just a pretty face.   You may have seen her recently in the Jeremy Scott For Adidas Collection or read her  blog the Kashiro Collective, which she updates frequently.  Amelian is also a budding artist and has lent her graphic design skills to create   fashion stylist Monica Rose’s blog. See how Amelian has turned her beauty into business.

 1.       Style & Substance: How did you break in to the modeling  industry?
Amelian: At first I started modeling for a girlfriend who was a photography major while at the same college and I loved it! After that I got opportunities to model for my friends clothing store, and more work started trickling in.  Then Jeremy Scott asked me to model for his Originals By Originals collection and it’s incredible!

2.      Style & Substance: What is the best part of being a model and fashion stylist?
Amelian: They both help me out immensely! When I style, I understand what it’s like to be in front of the camera – poses, angles, facial features, expressions,  what works on camera, keeping the body shape flattering and I can give direction to a model when need be. When I model, I am SUPER aware of my  clothing, how to make things look great and what poses work. They go hand in hand!

3.      Style & Substance: You also have a background in advertising and graphic design, how do you marry all your loves into one career?
Amelian: My initial goal was to be a Art Director but I discovered styling in college. After graduating I was like “Shit, what do I do now!?” I just followed my path and took the opportunities that were in front of me. I now  feel like I am on the path to that but in a way I didn’t expect – which is wonderful! I use my graphic design skills to Photoshop shoots I style, create my own logos and art, design web sites. I am fully aware of how to market my creations and myself! As well it all involves fashion and my  styling. My goal is to be more than just a stylist, I want to be a creator  of beautiful art like media with a wonderful aesthetic – like a Art Director.  It is important to understand all aspects so I educate myself and learn from those I meet along the way.

4.      Style & Substance: What is next on your agenda?
Amelian: Right now I am organizing ideas I have for some really creative photo shoots. I am very intrigued by African culture and the work of Kara Walker, a very poignant and amazing storyteller artist who utilizes black paper  cutouts in her work. I love exotic patterns and colors and the striking silhouettes of Walker’s work. I love the unexpected and color. I am also working on samples for a accessory line I hope to introduce before the year  is over. Styling shoots, travel and modeling of course too. I just focus on being inspired, creating and staying proactive.

5. Style & Substance: What do you think about all the model reality shows that have saturated TV and are promising instant fame as a “super model” but  thus far it hasn’t happened yet to winners?
Amelian: I have seen some beautiful girls on those shows but I don’t think the way to find the next “super model” is through silly “challenges” etc – real life is far from that! A super model is a SUPERB type of model – who will be discovered one way or another as they were before the swarm of reality shows that drowns our T.V sets every waking moment. I think the shows are wonderful for exposing the different types of beauty (and REAL PEOPLE!!) that are models in their own right even though they are not conventional. Opportunity is in those shows for the young ladies who choose to participate so I think it’s up to them to take that platform and work it.

6.      Style & Substance: What keeps you sane in the competitive and fast-paced modeling world?
Amelian: I just always remember that I’m just a girl from Anchorage, Alaska! It’s important to stay true to your self and be REAL! I just stay down to earth and make the best of every situation. I talk to my loving boyfriend (he keeps me sane!), my family. I think about my next move and I don’t focus on the drama.

7.      Style & Substance: Describe your Style and Substance?
 Amelian: Savvy, always evolving, genuine and true to self!

To learn more about Amelian head over to her site, The Kashiro Collective.